Hallelujah Key West!!!

We arrived in Key West yesterday afternoon at 4:00. We left Nassau Sunday morning at 8:00am telling our good friend and dock master, Vincent, goodbye. When thinking about this passage I think of it in four legs the first being the "Tongue of the Ocean". We were sailing into the tongue of the ocean making 7 knots with 25 knots of wind behind us. The seas were high - maybe 6 to 8 feet. I was feeling a little green but we quickly got our sea legs and were excited about our progress. We made it the northwest channel light 2 hours before we had planned, giving us plenty of time to sail the next 60 miles on the banks. The second leg of the trip we continued to make good time even with a direction change, we had a beautiful night sail across the banks in 10 feet of water. The waves were only about 2 feet and the almost full moon made for a lovely evening.

We got to Gun Cay around 4:00 am and dropped the anchor so we could have daylight for the cut leaving the Bahamas and starting our gulf stream crossing. We awoke with the alarm at 6:30 and radioed into our weather guru Chris Parker telling him we were ready to cross the gulf and asking if he thought it would be an ok window. He said we would have 15 to 20 knots of east wind and the seas would be about 6 ft. I asked if waiting a day would help any with the seas, he said no it would be the same. Oh well, it wasn't the best weather window but at least he said we should not have any squalls. So we begin leg three of our passage, sailing across the gulf stream. I had a knot in my stomach, we were both ready to get this next 10 hours over with. Most of the day was not that bad and was definitely nothing like the trip we had going across the stream last time. I think the word for the day was tedious, not scary but very tedious. Our speed really slowed down in the apex of the stream and we could feel the strong current going against us. We finally made it to the other side and started our way down the Hawks Channel(what I would call our last leg of the trip to Key West). It was so much calmer in the channel and we had another beautiful night of sailing in 10 feet of water. Again, the moon was amazing. The next day we realized we were going to make it into Key West by that afternoon so we decided to sail on and pass Marathon. Marathon was our default plan. We really wanted to make it into Key West for several reasons but I guess the most important reason was that Key West was our first destination when we started our journey. It was symbolic to come back to Key West and celebrate being back in the good ole U.S.A.

Key West has a strong tidal current and the anchoring is not great- plus you have all the wakes from the excursion boats. Anyway- we had already decided we would spring for the mooring fee so that we would be in the calm harbor and not have to deal with the wakes, etc. The bad news is that we had to sail through a narrow channel with the strong tide going against us. At one point we were actually stopped, motoring straight into the wind. Glenn did an amazing job of working us through the channel. Hallelujah! I thought- now just one more hurdle to jump through before we could crash and sleep.

The moorings in Key West do not have a line on them. Our dinghy is lashed on our deck, so it is not available to help with the tie up. So I motored to the mooring while Glenn lassoed the ball (thanks Jeff, it worked). The wind was blowing so hard and we still had to get our dinghy off the boat and put a secure line on the mooring ball. My nerves were shot. I was yelling at the wind to stop and yelling at the stupid mooring ball for not having a line on it. It was not a pretty sight. As usual Glenn was calm as a cucumber. He admitted later how stressed he was but he did not show it. I think the last hour of our 56 hour passage was the most challenging of all.

Glad to be home, well almost,
Michele

And We Wait... Nassau

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As you know, we were hoping to leave the Bahamas for Florida last Monday, but we turned on our 6:30am weather forecast with Chris Parker and he said, and I quote, “the weather in the Bahamas will be horrendous for the foreseeable future”. Needless to say we were pretty depressed. We decided to make the best of it, after all we are in a marina - a rare luxury with hot showers and endless electricity. We made our project list and discussed what we wanted to see of Nassau. I must say the week has flown by. Glenn has completed a ton of projects that had been slated for after we returned to the States and I have been busy with lots of little odds and ends.

Wednesday we took a stroll down to the straw market, (not a great one) however it was a beautiful day. I know this is very confusing due to the fact that we are stuck here waiting on better weather, once again it does not squall all day but it is windy as all get out, blowing 25 to 30 knots. This is not a bad thing when you are touring on land as it actually keeps it much cooler.

Yesterday, we took another stroll back to Atlantis (the huge hotel, mega marina, etc, it is truly out of this world). We packed a picnic using our last can of stuffed grape leaves from the French islands and an apple and cheese. We went to the Cloisters built in the 12 century in France and brought to the Bahamas in 1969. Wow- we really felt like we were in Europe. We had the whole garden and grounds to ourselves. It was one of those special days we will come back to many times when we are back at work.

Nassau again

We arrived in Nassau yesterday after a very calm motor sail through the yellow banks. We are in a marina waiting to see what develops with the possible low. Our dreams of doing a 48 hour passage from Nassau to Key West may not be possible the weather is changing day to day so we may have to take smaller hops to get back. Hope to leave for Bimini Monday morning.

Norman Cay, Bahamas

We left beautiful Warderick Wells(Exuma Park) this morning with a mix of emotions, excited that we could move however, very sad that our vacation in the south harbor of Exuma Park was coming to an end. We also knew that after leaving Exuma Park we are, what you might say in delivery mode. We hope to stop in some really nice spots on our way home but at this point we will be trying to move. We arrived in Norman Cay about 1:00 just missing a really nasty squall. We did get some nice rain but no wind.
We are excited that we get to have happy hour with our friends from Mei Wenti this afternoon. Norman island was well known in the 70's and 80's.Carlos Lehder's used the island as the base for a very profitable cocaine smuggling operation.
Very little remains from those days except the airplane that rests in the middle of the harbor. We hope to snorkel on it today.

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Frustration in Paradise: Warderick Wells

If you could see this harbor we are anchored in you would think it was crazy that anyone could be frustrated. Most of you know when I get my hopes up it is very hard for me to shift gears. This trip has tested my patience many times. Now that I know our trip is coming to an end, I am starting to think about all things that need to be accomplished in the next 7 weeks. I start work the first of July. Before July we need to get to St. Pete, redo the teak work and other boat projects, pack, get a U-haul move back to Memphis, find an apartment and buy a car and unpack. Crazy! The thing is, I know it is all possible with the help of our great support group of family and friends. When I think about what we have already accomplished in the last two years my head spins.

I am trying my best to take advantage of the beautiful surroundings and enjoy what may be my last time on a deserted island for a long, long time. The harbor we are currently in and have been in since last Thursday night is protected from all sides, so this week of squally weather should not be a problem. We are glad to be alone (as we had hoped) in the South anchorage, however, you also know how social I am, so after a few days of R&R I am ready for a conversation with a fellow cruiser. All of our buddies are now North of us or decided to stay south in the islands. I think Glenn is also a little frustrated with the prospect of waiting another week for good weather. I hear him hammering away on some project as I type. We all have our ways of coping.

On a happier note, we want to tell you about the incredible snorkeling on this island. We saw the biggest lobsters we have ever seen - all in a no-take zone of course. This is, after all, the Exuma Land and Sea Park. We also saw beautiful fan coral and a nurse shark. The beaches are amazing. I think I will go back to my book. I am reading “Wicked” - about the wicked witch of the West, very interesting. We have no shortage of good books and good food, so I don’t expect to get any sympathy for being stuck on this beautiful island.

Bahamas

Yesterday we left the beautiful Emerald Bay Marina. We were sad to leave the wonderful hot showers but very excited to leave the surgey marina. We motor sailed 40 miles with extremely calm seas and no wind. We made it to Black Point by 4:00 that afternoon. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner at the famous Lorraine's cafe. (Fried Grouper and the fixins) Black Point is the largest village in the Exmas after Great Exuma, a very clean, nice settlement. [N24d06:206, W076d24:263]

We awoke at our 6:20 alarm clock to hear our weather report. Chris told us all about Subtropical storm "Andrea" (how appropriate). We wanted to assure you we are feeling no affects of this storm. In fact it is dead calm. We left the beautiful harbor of Black Point at 8:00 am. We motor sailed to Warderwick Wells, one of our favorite spots in the Bahamas. We had no wind at first, then we had a nasty squall with 30 knots. Thank goodness that passed and we made it into the South harbor where we are very excited about being the only boat in the harbor. The squalls seem to be gone for now and it is another beautiful day in paradise. We will stay here a few days and let Andrea pass by and then head west.
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We want to wish everyone (who is a mother) a happy Mothers day this Sunday!

Love, Michele and Glenn

Whoo! What A Ride! - guest blog from Jann & Gail

That’s the best way to describe our arrival aboard Crossroads. We arrived in Georgetown at 10:00pm. It took two trips in the dingy, in the rain, in the waves to transport four people and five pieces of luggage to the boat. Everyone and everything (except for the computer) was soaked with water. Once aboard we were immediately hit with pitching and rolling enough for us to question the wisdom of two weeks aboard. Many pills and seabands later we were fine and emptying our bags of goodies for Glenn and Michele. Michele kept promising this would be the worst night because we would move to a calmer anchorage, and of course she was right.

Our first three days in Georgetown coincided with the annual National Family Island Regatta. What fun it was to watch the islanders sail their native boats with big sails and colorful boats. The crew use long boards for counter balance and move them from side to side for each tack. The crew slides up and down the boards for ballast looking like crabs scuttling on the beach. After some straw market shopping, grocery shopping, and bread buying from Mom (local bread baker who sells from her minivan three days a week) we hoisted anchor and moved to the leeward side of Stocking Island.

Stocking Island is a beautiful island just off Great Exuma. This calmer anchorage is where we stay for the majority of our time. Here we swim off the boat, kayak, yoga on shore, watch beautiful sunsets, and shell hunt. We have left our hectic American schedules behind and are now operating on Island time.

Michele and Glenn are great hosts. We eat great food and enjoy wonderful cocktail hours with them. Many of their cruising friends have also come to Georgetown and we spend the next four days getting to experience the strong friendships formed with other cruisers. Delilah arrives with fresh Mahi Mahi to share. What a treat!! They were thanking us for delivering their new computer from the States, but the fish far outweighed the delivery. We now understand what “potluck” really means to cruisers, no green bean casserole for this crowd! One night we all went ashore for a potluck that would rival any Indian restaurant. Curry dishes were everywhere. We ate until nothing was left. We have many good recipes to try at home.

Before their friends head north, Glenn fixes his famous bread pudding with Mom’s coconut bread and we count fourteen aboard Crossroads, a new record! We feel blessed to have met so many of their friends and hope we will see them in Hardy one day.

As Jann and I head home tomorrow we will never forget the special times we have shared with Glenn and Michele. We are thankful to have husbands and children who were supportive of our adventure. We are especially thankful to Glenn and Michele for their hospitality and sharing a piece of their dream with us.

Whoo! What a ride!

Jann Christensen and Gail Theiler
(two of Glenn’s “big” sisters)

Georgetown Family Island Regetta

Gail and Jann shopping and shelling