Monday, January 30, 2006

Allan Cay 1-31-06


We are at beautiful Allan Cay. A large population of rock iguanas live on Allan's Cay. Allan Cay is the most northern part of the Exumas. We arrived 1-30-06 WOW! I wish everyone could see the beauty of this island. There are about 15 too many boats for the harbor. We will post photo's when we get to the next internet cafe.[N24d44:84, W076d50:30]

Saturday, January 28, 2006

Nassau Potluck


Potluck in Nassau
We stayed an awesome marina in Nassau. The TPA Limited Marina was very special because although it was small in size, the dock master Vincent Symonette was the coolest guy ever. He made everyone feel special, especially the women, he gave me a new title “Lady Michele”. Our last night in Nassau we had a wonderful potluck with Glenn’s yummy conch fritters and conch salad, brown rice and beans, green chili quesadillas, no bake chocolate oatmeal cookies, bread pudding (Ruth’s recipe) and someone even brought lamb chops. Not to brag, but our conch fritters and bread pudding were the talk of the dock.

Friday, January 27, 2006

Nassau


Wednesday morning at first light we motored out of the harbor at Chub Cay (remember all Cays are pronounced “Key”) and headed for Nassau. We made it to Nassau, Wednesday the 25th of January. [N25d04:49, W77d19:11]

Nassau is the Capitol of The Bahamas and has a very long and active history in the New World. The city was originally a haven for Pirates such as Henry Morgan, Edward Teach (AKA Blackbeard), and Calico Jasck Rackham. (your fact for the day)

Last evening Glenn made the best bread pudding he has ever made, it was magically delicious. Joining us for dessert were our new friends Eric and Jen from Maine and old friends Kim, Don, Sharon and Rebecca. The bread pudding was made with left over homemade coconut and banana bread that we bought in Bimini. Yum! Yum!

Today we plan to check out the Atlantis resort on Paradise Island. As an added attraction, apparently Michael Jordan is in town.

Chub Cay

We made it through the Northwest Channel without mishap and anchored in Chub Cay at our usual time – 5:30 P.M. Two guys from North Carolina dinghied over and gave us two mahi mahi steaks from a fish they had caught on the way in. We gave them a couple coldies (like gold here in the land of $40 a case beer) and fired up the grill. We feasted on sausage and cheese with Rendezvous seasoning, jerked mahi from the grill and garbanzo bean (chic pea for the southerners) salad. Everything was yummy but the need for Dramamine took some of the joy out of the meal. Crossroads was rolling back and forth, the dishes were crashing, stuff in the cabinets banging, crew were tossed about. It was like the crossing all over again except we were at anchor. Rolly anchorage aside, Chub Cay looked pretty from the boat. Everything on shore looked like it had been built this year. I think they got hit hard by a couple hurricanes and are still doing a lot of rebuilding.[N25d24:50, W77d54:80]

Thursday, January 26, 2006

Going across the Banks

On Monday late morning we made our way around the dredge that occupies most of the deep water in the channel and carefully inched along the beach to open water. After sailing north to aptly named North Rock we headed east onto the Great Bahama Bank and motored over clear, shallow water. It took a bit of getting used to but the chart says there is nothing out there that our boat will hit. The water was mostly 10 to 15 feet deep so our 5.5 foot draft was really no problem. At 5:30 we were 15 miles from Bimini and we moved a mile or so off of the main path (everyone follows the same waypoints) and anchored for the night. It was odd anchoring with no land in sight. The sand on the Bank is not very deep and has a smooth rock surface under it. Anchors tend to bite into the sand for a while and then drag over the rock for a bit. The numbers on the GPS kept changing since we were slowly moving down wind. Everyone said this is normal and since there is nothing to hit, we let it drag all night. Crossroads actually moved less than a quarter of a mile while we slept so it would have taken a week to move far enough to hit something. [N25d47:06, W78d59:03]
Three A.M. came early after a rocking horse ride all night as the boat pitched up and down in the waves. We were anchor up and engine on by 3:30 and motoring into the wind bound for the Northwest Channel (on the southeast end of the Bank). You may have noticed that for a sailboat we do a lot of motoring. The wind here seems to be either too strong to leave port or too light to sail, but it always blows from the direction we are going. I would rather motor in a calm than get beat up in a blow. So motor we did, for 14 hours, dull, dull, dull.

Sherry's By the Sea


Friday we got a little bit of a weather break and decided to sail north to Bimini. We celebrated with the other two boats that made the crossing with us. Our US flag was torn to shreds after the crossing. We cut it up, signed it and gave all the boats that crossed with us a piece of the flag. Saturday, we took the bikes ashore for a ride and later walked to the beach. Bimini has a nice small town feel – in a sort of Caribbean Mexico sort of way. Everyone we saw while we were bike riding or walking greeted us and was friendly. That evening we went to Sherry’s by the Sea and had a delicious dinner of conch salad, fried lobster tail and red snapper. Sherry is quite a character. She cooks what she wants, when she wants in an open sided pavilion overlooking the Atlantic side of the island. A loud jam box provided the background and Sherry even came out from behind the counter and sang along with a few songs.

Sewing sails


Glenn spent time sewing the ripped sails of Moonrise and sorting out the tangled lines on Crossroads. I did laundry and tried to clean off some of the salt from our boat, everything was covered with salt crust. Yuck!

Clearing Customs


Cat Cay was beautiful, but because it is a private island you are really limited to the marina. It was just what we needed to rest and regroup. The first order of business the next day was to clear into the country. Each time we sail to another country we must officially check in with customs and immigration. This usually involves waiting until someone is actually at the customs office and then dealing with a surly government official who acts like he does something more important than clearing in yachts – he doesn’t. Step one is to raise the yellow “Q” (quarantine) flag. This lets anyone who cares to know that you have not yet officially entered the country. At this point only the captain may go ashore – or Michele if she really wants a hot shower. The harbormaster provided the 10 forms to be filled out and an hour or two was spent doing that. It is still very important to ask ships from ports in other countries if there is any evidence of plague amongst the rats on board. Once the fees are paid and everything is stamped several times the vessel is free to move about the country. Now the “Q” flag can be lowered and replaced with a courtesy flag of the country being visited. This is flown along with (but higher than) the ole stars and stripes.

Oh what a night/Gulf Stream crossing


Fact: One of the great ocean currents of the world, the Gulf Stream flows north and controls the climate of most of the U.S. East Coast, tempers the subarctic waters of Iceland and allows palm trees to grow on England’s Scilly Isles. (fun facts to know and share)

I think I have been so traumatized from the crossing, I have not wanted to write about it. Sorry it has taken me so long to share our experience.

Getting ready to depart was as usual pretty frantic. We had to top of our water and dinghy gas supply, tie everything down and pull the kayak, outboard engine and dinghy out of the water.

All five boats pulled up their anchors and got under the bridge promptly at 5:00 pm. We started making our way out through the channel markers and it quickly became dark. It was so dark. We motored directly into the wind for 4 hours at 2 miles an hour - I was about to lose my mind. We were getting tossed around because we could not put up our sails. We have one of the biggest boats in our little Gulf Stream flotilla, but we are a very heavy boat so 28 ft. boats were passing us. When we finally raised the main sail it took Glenn 30 minutes on top of the deck to pull it up. He was getting tossed all over the boat. Thank God he was tethered to the boat.

We did not get seasick, I really think it was because the boat is so heavy and you don’t get tossed around as much in a center cockpit. The other nice quality of this boat was the fully enclosed dodger, all our other friends got so wet from the waves. We had all the panels down so we did not get drenched. Don’t get me wrong we still had waves that came through under and over the plastic panels. The waves were 10 to 12 feet. They had predicted winds blowing at 10 to 15 out of the southeast, not bad. We had 30-knot winds blowing from the east, so we were sailing into the wind. The only thing that could have made it worst would have been north winds.
We radioed the other 4 boats at the top of every hour. This really helped to make the time pass and made us feel less alone out there. With our sails up we quickly passed the 28ft and 30-foot boats. We stayed in radio range with all but one of the boats. We found out later that they turned around and went back to Marathon. The next afternoon, we finally made it to the entrance of Cat/Gun Cay. It is a very narrow entrance with shallow water on one side and a rock face on the other. The wind was still blowing 30 knots and the current was very strong. The water was breaking on the bank; it looked like the surf in Hawaii. We shot the cut with Crossroads running at full speed to maintain control. Twenty-three hours from our departure we were so relieved to finally be at the Cat Cay Yacht Club. We had always planned to anchor out everywhere we went until we get to South America, where the marinas are really inexpensive. We quickly changed our minds regarding this issue. We paid $100 a night just to be secure at a dock, which did not include shore power or water. At most marinas, some one will come out and catch your dock lines (it is extremely helpful). Not this yacht club, we had to come into a slip and try to tie up on our own. We were soooo exhausted I wanted to cry. We were too tired to cleat a line without giving it a lot of thought. Our friends Don and Kim arrived about 30 minutes after we arrived and we helped them tie up. Don had cracked or bruised ribs from the trip and their sails were torn. Glenn and I ordered dinner and went to bed at 8:00 we slept 12 hours and had a much better attitude the next day.

Saturday, January 21, 2006

Alice Town

We are in Alice Town on North Bimini. This island was one of Ernest Hemingways's favorite haunts, where he enjoyed big game fishing. Last night we ate some of the best fish and chips I have ever eaten. Today we plan to take the bikes ashore and check out the island. Sunday we will start making our way to Nasssau. [N25d43:50,W079d17:85]
michele

Wednesday, January 18, 2006

We made it to the Bahamas!!!

We had a very rough passage across the gulf stream, 30 mile an hour winds. We will give more details soon. We just wanted everyone to know we are at beautiful Cat Cay, the lower part of the Bimini chain. [N25d33:21,W079d16:68]

Sunday, January 15, 2006

Check out the Navigation Station

Check out the cool navigation station on your right. Thanks to Ken Hamric you will be able to follow us everywhere we go. (Well not everywhere, ha!) I also want to thank Tim Kreth for assisting with my ham needs. Thanks to Tim I can send email from the ham radio, and thanks to Ken you can look at a very cool map and see where we are. Wow, great team work! I would give anything to have at least one brain cell that was geared like these two men.
michele

Eating Chicken Wings at Overseas


We think we are leaving tomorrow. (1-17-05) The weather forecast is from the south; this is the window we are looking for. Meanwhile, we have been having a great time in Marathon.

Check out our new friends Don and Kim from Ohio, they are both pilots. They are a part of the Bahamas planning group. Kim and I went to the beach last Friday. We had some much-needed exercise and chilled out with a book. Later that evening Glenn and I met several friends at the Overseas lounge, where we ate chicken wings and played pool. We felt like we were back home at the P&H in Memphis.

Last week Glenn and I finally took the kayak out for a paddle. It was beautiful and a great upper body workout. Wow! Look out Advil! Saturday it was so windy, no one left their boat all day. Winds were gusting up to 40 knots. It was kinda like a snow day, you know where you give yourself permission to lay on the couch and read a book.

Michele

Monday, January 09, 2006

Sunset in Marathon

Hanging out in Marathon

Ok, Ok, I am learning what the word patience means. I have been trying for 3 days to update this website with no luck. We are waiting for a good weather window to cross the Gulf Stream. Thursday night we met with 8 other boaters who are planning to cross at the same time. We are currently in a northern cold front, that is the worst time to go across. The current sweeps you to the north and if you are also heading into a north wind you will get huge waves and have the wind against you, Yuck! So you wait for a southern wind. We may get to leave this Wed. (Tony Brooks Birthday). We have always heard you might have to wait a couple of weeks for a good weather window, so we wait.

Marathon is such a strange place, the boating community and facilities are wonderful. The town feels like a mixture of Mexico, Chester Co. and Frasyer. The anchorage is extremely well protected from bad weather consequently; every sailboat in Florida wants to anchor here. This morning it was so windy we put out a third anchor. We were nervous that our anchor might drag and we would hit another boat.

The marina has a workshop, so you know where to find Glenn. He has been working on our new teak companionway hatch doors and the self-steering vane.

I did learn how to drive the dinghy this week, so look out dinghy dock.

Michele

Wednesday, January 04, 2006

Reflections of our first two weeks living off the grid:

Conservation takes on a whole new meaning for us. We have 160 gallons of water on our boat (which is really pretty good for a boat); however every time you brush your teeth, take a shower or wash dishes you think about it running out. We also have power, but the solar panels or the engine must charge the batteries. So you think about how many lights you leave on at night. We are adjusting fine, but you do have to make hard choices about using the computer or ham radio or microwave. We think twice about how long to stay on these luxuries. Oh, yes and the big dilemma for the day is how much water you pump in your toilet, so you don’t let your holding tanks overflow. I know, I know, too much information! I just wanted to share what it is like living without shore power and a marina. We were pretty spoiled in St. Petersburg.

I haven’t missed the car as much as I thought I would. So far, grocery stores and the West Marine are in walking distance. Glenn takes his bike and checks out the island. I am sure I will eventually get the bike off the boat but for now I prefer walking.

We have met some really nice people along the way. Susan and Kneeland Chase are from St. Petersburg. We had a great visit with them in Key West. We also reconnected with our friends Steve and Rhonda, who are now in the Bahamas. We hope to see them again in a couple of weeks.

michele

Michele’s cousin Marty/ Key West

Thank god for family! My cousin, Marty Maness, lives in Key West. Last Saturday,
I did 3 loads of laundry at his house and he took me to the grocery store. We shared a most excellent New Years Eve, people watching on Duval Street. The next day we picked Marty up in our dingy and cooked dinner on Crossroads. I haven’t seen Marty in 20 years, but we picked up right where we left off. I was very happy to reconnect with Marty.

Tuesday, January 03, 2006

Marathon

Happy new Year!
We are in Marathon ,this is Tuesday, our readings are [N24d42:34,W081d05:78]